One of the tricks for flaky biscuits is using cold butter, so keep the butter in the fridge or freezer until you need it.

In a large mixing bowl, combine 2 ½ cups all-purpose flour, 1 tablespoon baking powder, ¼ teaspoon baking soda, 1 teaspoon salt, ¼ teaspoon black pepper, ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon, ¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg, ¼ teaspoon ground cloves, and 2 tablespoons finely chopped sage. Whisk to thoroughly combine and distribute the ingredients, then set it aside.

Measure ⅓ cup buttermilk in a 2-cup liquid measuring cup, then add ¾ cup of pumpkin puree and 1 tablespoon of brown sugar. Stir or whisk the ingredients until smooth and fully combined.

Now take out the ½ cup of cold butter and grate it directly into the flour mixture. Alternatively, you can cut the butter into cubes and use a food processor, pastry blender, or forks to work the butter into the flour.

Pour the wet mixture into the flour-butter mixing bowl and using a rubber spatula or your hands, work the dough together until just barely combined. It should look shaggy and kind of dry still, that’s normal.

Turn out the dough onto a floured work surface or pastry mat and gently press into a rectangle about 1” thick. Use a pastry cutter/bench scraper or your hands to fold the right third of the rectangle into the middle of the rectangle, then fold the left third in as well. Turn the dough 90° and gently press the dough into itself and form another rectangle.

Repeat this pattern of folding, turning, and pressing 2-3 more times and the dough will come together nicely and you’ll be able to see the difference. If at any point the dough starts to feel warm or your hands get oily from the butter starting to melt, place it into the refrigerator to keep the butter cold.

Form one final rectangle with the biscuit dough, about 1” thick. Using a 2 ½” biscuit cutter, start near one corner and push straight down through the dough and pull straight back up. Form the scraps into another rectangle and keep cutting biscuits until you run out of dough. Place the biscuits on a lined baking sheet and set in the refrigerator.

Preheat the oven to 450°F / 230°C and let the biscuits stay cold until the oven is ready.

When the oven is ready, remove the biscuits from the cold and if you like, brush the tops of the biscuits with some buttermilk and gently press a sage leave into the top. Place on the middle rack and bake for 15-18 minutes, until the biscuits are puffy and golden brown.

While the pumpkin biscuits are baking, melt a few tablespoons of butter. As soon as the biscuits come out of the oven, brush the melted butter over the hot biscuits. Serve warm with some more butter, or honey-butter or maple-butter for even more flavor.